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Bangalore house envy

I experienced a serious case of ‘house envy’ in Bangalore. I had the pleasure of being invited in my one night to two homes plus the guest house and… I gotta admit… the spaciousness compared to our cramped – I mean cosy – flat in Mumbai is extreme. The bathroom alone in the cheerful guest house is bigger than our guest bedroom!

Living room

Guest house living room

Don’t get me wrong – I’m not suddenly going to up and move to Bangalore and I love our place, however it did prompt thoughts in choices we make in life and the circumstances we adjust to in living arrangements. (more…)

Confession time…

I admit, I’m out of practice and outta shape with the whole work-life balance thing. Not only has getting to the gym suffered completely in the last few months but, I must confess, I’m a recovering workaholic who has completely fallen “off the wagon” and slipped back into bad patterns with the Jakarta project.

As Lady of the Cakes succinctly diagnosed my condition “Bad case of projectitis!” and very aptly prescribed “3 hours of blogging faffery!”

And I couldn’t agree more!

Which is what made my trip to Bangalore such a delightful break from intense non-stop work. I’ll confess, I still did a couple of hours both days, but in a relaxed detached manner. This morning my emails were made from the guest house terrace while leisurely sipping my 2nd morning espresso, listening to the birds chirping, enjoying blue skies and a balmy breeze with feet propped on a stool.

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One night in Bangkok… I mean Bangalore!

Having literally just breezed through Bangkok airport on my trip back from Jakarta to Mumbai, I find myself throwing jeans and a t-shirt into a small bag for a quick trip tomorrow morning to Bangalore.

I admit it… I have a special fondness for Bangalore… and I can’t wait to be back after years! (more…)

Bonus time in Bombay – Jakarta I’ll be back again soon!

Today I was supposed to be in transit to Jakarta… but I’m instead waking up in Bombay. What happened? Did I miss my flight? Was there some major life tragedy that derailed everything? Nope! Just a simple delay in the launch date for the project which means more time home rather than away. (more…)

‘Eve Teasing’ – The other side of my love affair with India

Let me start by sharing that I have yet to meet one single woman anywhere in the world who has NOT experienced sexual harassment in some form or the other.

I challenge you to have a serious conversation about it with any woman and ask if she has escaped – impossible. It simply is a question of the various circumstances, frequency or severity… not whether it has occurred.

A letter on CNN by an American student on her experience of harassment traveling in India sparked considerable debate recently:

It prompted me to reflect on some of my experiences as I too began my ‘love affair’ with India on a ‘study abroad’ program. I’ve also seen how complicated these programs are to organize from dear friend who used to lead such tours to India until they became just too challenging.

Ignorance isn't bliss (Photo taken in Bandra, Bombay)

Ignorance isn’t bliss (Photo taken in Bandra, Bombay)

First blush… flirting run amok (1990)

  • My first time in India was with a summer study abroad tour with Canadian university students – mostly MA and PhDs – coming to India with various backgrounds, ages, academic interests. The group was predominantly composed of women with two male leaders – one from Canada and one from India.
  • It was a remarkable experience with six weeks of jam-packed amazing activities that left us exhausted, overwhelmed and also deeply engaged.  It was a trip of a life-time and, though I didn’t realize it then, changed the course of my life irrevocably.
  • And while we had some mild ‘harassment’ from the ‘external’ environment, it was what happened ‘internally’ that was more disturbing with sexualized conduct by the team leaders whose ‘flirting’ went beyond what’s acceptable. From offers of ‘massage’ to needing to firmly shut the bedroom door in a persistent leader’s face, an element was thrown into the ‘masala’ which made an already charged atmosphere even more so.
  • One participant had a breakdown – the environment and her experiences in our travels triggered childhood memories of traumatic repeated rapes growing up in Canada.
  •  Years later one tour leader was charged with misconduct as his activities escalated in future programs. So while there were some marvellous moments, there were other times which alas were not.
  • Yet what stayed was positive and the incredible privilege of being introduced in such a dynamic way to a remarkable country.
You can't silence us! (Photo taken in Bandra, Mumbai)

You can’t silence us! (Photo taken in Bandra, Bombay)

Dancing with eve… learning to fight back (1995-1996)

  • Years later on a fellowship studying in Delhi, I learned first hand just how serious the innocuous sounding phrase ‘eve teasing’ truly is.
  • As I hopped on and off DTC buses and navigated the streets of Delhi, I quickly discovered this was very real and potentially dangerous.
  • On buses, ‘shoulder jacking’, for example, was quite popular and while primarily directed at seated women – guys were not immune either and would also find themselves being vigorously rubbed against in a situation where there was literally no room to move.
  • So I shed my polite Canadian veneer and learned to fight back! Practicing my basic Hindi hurling abuses, attempting to embarrass the perpetrators by shaming them loudly and, at times, drawing blood as I dug my fingernails into hands that were in places they had no business being.
  • I learned what to wear to reduce unwanted attentions, how to carry myself differently and never let down my guard when alone.
  • I also learned to always arrange a ‘male’ companion if going out at night – which generally just happened and was all good fun!
  • And it virtually stopped! The new ‘amour’ worked brilliantly and I could be comfortable as long as I worked within these lessons learned.
  • While there were challenges, these were few and far between. Overall, it was an exceptional time – full of discovery, growth and much more – one of the most positive experiences in my life. For every negative there was an even greater positive experience and I have no regrets.
Yo gurlz - listen up! (Photo taken in Bandra, Mumbai)

Yo gurlz – listen up! (Photo taken in Bandra, Bombay)

A match made in Mumbai (2003 to….?)

  • Fast forward to 2003 with a return to Delhi… there were signs of some improvements. However catching a bus or rickshaw after dark from work to home was still decidedly NOT a safe or pleasant experience.
  • With the purchase of a car, hiring a driver, I finally had respite and gained a freedom to move around that had earlier been impossible.
  • More significant was the move to Mumbai in 2005 which enabled me, for the first time, to take off the ‘armour’ I adopted to cope with life in North India.
  • It was suddenly acceptable to step out of home in the evening alone and hop on a rickshaw! What joy! What a relief!!
  • Defiantly I began to confidently wear clothes that I couldn’t conceive of decades ago – and revelled in how significantly what is considered ‘appropriate’ had changed.
  • And while I would never deliberately invite trouble, I do have age on my side. After 23+ years flirting with India, my love affair has evolved from being a young ‘didi’ (sister) to a maturing ‘aunty’ – respectable in a committed partnership with a lovely man.

Yet today in I see signs of the earlier blithe assumption of safely moving around as a woman in Mumbai in jeopardy. In dismay I watch my beloved ‘Bombay’ report repeated public cases of brutal rape and witness the environment shifting. Each day the newspaper brings further updates on the latest example of a woman or child being molested.

My love affair remains strong and true – I remain fortunate to construct a life where such challenges are minimal. However I’m equally aware this is something which can never be taken for granted. Eve teasing in India is not to be taken lightly. However India is by no means unique and no one is exempt either from the experience or responsibility for sexual harassment.

So how does it feel to be a woman in India? Frankly how does it feel to be a woman anywhere in the world? Or, for that matter, under certain circumstances a man too? Sexual harassment is unfortunately universal. Can you challenge this?

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Life’s simple pleasures… the joys of doing laundry?

You may think I’m insane… but right now… the simple pleasure of doing my own laundry in my own washing machine is pure bliss! The ritual of putting it up to dry and then taking them down after a few hours to stack in a pile to go to the press wallah tomorrow morning is such a joy!!

The clothing quandry of working professionally away from home in hotels includes:

  • Don’t bother to do laundry. If traveling only a few days, imminently do-able. If not… (Most trips now 21 days)

    Happy clean clothes drying in the balcony

    Happy clean clothes drying in the balcony

  • Selectively attempt to hand wash and dry in the hotel room (Works for the ahem! ‘unmentionables’ but not everything)
  • Live in the same clothes repeatedly (Nope – can’t do!)
  • Pack a massive bag and lug around enough clothes to last the entire trip (Generally, if I can’t carry it on the plane myself, don’t to take it!)
  • Do send clothes for laundry and live with the consequences

None of these options are ideal. With all my trips back n forth between Mumbai and Jakarta, I’ve tried a modified approach: (more…)

Back in Bombay… and straight to Bandra!

Its my first trip home to Mumbai since landing a super cool project in Jakarta. I managed to arrange a flight route (via Bangkok) that permitted me to arrive in time for a friend’s new gallery / event space launch. We reached just as the music began, what joy to be serenaded by a dear friend, munch on macaroon treats, sip wine and generally enjoy terrific company in a convivial atmosphere. Our friend has done well with this new venture!

For those unfamiliar with Bandra, it is a special neighbourhood – a catholic bastion with strong proud traditions that has become rather popular with ex-pats – including those seeking a more ‘regular’ life not bolstered by insane high salaries and expense accounts. You know the type – locally hired foreigners who have chosen to stay and forgo all the ‘extras’ that come with a pampered ex-pat nomadic life!

Particularly the immediate area around Veronica and Chapel road, one can still find old bungalows and a sense of community. The space I found myself just a few hours from landing is one such bungalow… That was falling into complete disrepair until along came friends with a huge labour of love and rather more money than they planned – transforming it into a new avatar – an enchanting space to enjoy for eclectic events and show off funky furniture.

Rapt audience

Yes we were a rapt attentive audience!

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A proper “princess” penthouse pad!

My "princess" pad

My “princess” pad

While I’ve said enough about being aghast at discovering I’ve become a picky princess when it comes to places to stay, my adventures in Jakarta house hunting experienced a temporary reprieve with the discovery of a short-term studio apartment in CityLofts Sudirman.

It is connected to CityWalk Mall – full of restaurants, cafes, wine bars and even has a Whiskey Baron (my whisky aficionado side is intrigued tho have yet to try!). Nearby are more independent high-end restaurants for those moments of extra indulgence – my 1st day here went to Harum Manis – what a delicious feast!

The view is spectacular and my photos don’t even come close to doing it justice. Being here during Lebaran was such a treat as I watched all the fireworks from exhaulted heights! Comfortable, spacious for a studio, high-speed internet, lovely pool, my caffeine addiction was fully supported with a large French press and great cafes downstairs.

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“Mauving to Manitoba” from Mumbai Monsoon

We returned to a decidedly wet Mumbai still very much in the midst of monsoon. In an amusing moment, just days after leaving Winnipeg, I was reminded of Manitoba at the most unlikely of places – a Mumbai spa!

View from the backseat... a tenacious Mumbai monsoon

View from the backseat… a tenacious Mumbai monsoon (photo: Carissa Hickling)

While I enjoy little indulgences and luxuries, I rarely prioritize such activities. Most days, basic grooming suffices with self-trimmed nails, no polish, skin and hair that gets the most rudimentary daily cleansing and moisturizer. I’m not fussy about getting ready and can go from a slovenly state to shower, make-up, clothes and out the door in 20 mins or less if required!

A dear friend of 20 years, by contrast, delights in pampering and makes a point in her annual visits to Mumbai to fit in spa treatments.  We normally have a month or so together each year, so it is a ritual that at least one mani / pedi / hair spa visit is made augmented by calling a masseuse home a couple of times.

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Jet lag and a wood chipper? Seriously??

My secret to avoiding conking out in the middle of the afternoon with ‘jet lag’ is keeping busy. We did brilliantly adjusting to the time difference between India and Canada until our first truly relaxing afternoon.

Wood chipper (photo: Carissa Hickling)

Wood chipper (photo: Carissa Hickling)

While I should have tackled sorting through 60 odd boxes of books, papers and various other items stored at my parents, the lure of a comfortable bed when we planned to camp for the next five days was just too enticing…

About to sink into blissful oblivion, we were startled by the most god awful screeching noise. Something howled and whined its way into the upstairs bedroom at a defeaning volume!

So much for nap time. Up and out I went to discover it was a wood chipper. Yup… a wood chipper.

Gotta admit, a wood chipper as ‘jet lag’ cure was a first for me. What keeps you awake when you are dying to snoooooozzzee??

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