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“How come you don’t have an accent in Hindi?”

Just as my English has a “chameleon” quality (see “Can you drop the Indian accent?”), I’m often asked “How come you don’t have an accent in Hindi?”

I've got Hindi, what about you? (Photo: www.tattoodonkey.com)

I’ve got Hindi, what about you? (Photo: http://www.tattoodonkey.com)

Usually I explain that I have lived in India for more than a decade, studied Hindi in Delhi for a year augmented mid-way by a very helpful 6-week stint at the Landour Language School (near Mussourie).

What follows is generally “Aaah! That explains it!” type response. Because the ‘real’ Hindi is naturally from North India!

Yet I’m aware that my vocabulary has shifted between what is typically heard in Delhi to ‘Mumbaya’ words. And has deteriorated abysmally as my universe in Bombay is almost exclusively English.

When I lived in Delhi (1995-96, 2003-05) there were multiple daily opportunities to speak Hindi or at least ‘Hinglish‘ – in which one switches effortlessly between English, Hindi, blending words from each language. Today, I’m honest enough to know that when folks complement my Hindi, they are being terribly kind – even I can hear how badly I mess up!

However I have a few perspectives on this… and wonder if anyone else agrees? (more…)

‘Eve Teasing’ – The other side of my love affair with India

Let me start by sharing that I have yet to meet one single woman anywhere in the world who has NOT experienced sexual harassment in some form or the other.

I challenge you to have a serious conversation about it with any woman and ask if she has escaped – impossible. It simply is a question of the various circumstances, frequency or severity… not whether it has occurred.

A letter on CNN by an American student on her experience of harassment traveling in India sparked considerable debate recently:

It prompted me to reflect on some of my experiences as I too began my ‘love affair’ with India on a ‘study abroad’ program. I’ve also seen how complicated these programs are to organize from dear friend who used to lead such tours to India until they became just too challenging.

Ignorance isn't bliss (Photo taken in Bandra, Bombay)

Ignorance isn’t bliss (Photo taken in Bandra, Bombay)

First blush… flirting run amok (1990)

  • My first time in India was with a summer study abroad tour with Canadian university students – mostly MA and PhDs – coming to India with various backgrounds, ages, academic interests. The group was predominantly composed of women with two male leaders – one from Canada and one from India.
  • It was a remarkable experience with six weeks of jam-packed amazing activities that left us exhausted, overwhelmed and also deeply engaged.  It was a trip of a life-time and, though I didn’t realize it then, changed the course of my life irrevocably.
  • And while we had some mild ‘harassment’ from the ‘external’ environment, it was what happened ‘internally’ that was more disturbing with sexualized conduct by the team leaders whose ‘flirting’ went beyond what’s acceptable. From offers of ‘massage’ to needing to firmly shut the bedroom door in a persistent leader’s face, an element was thrown into the ‘masala’ which made an already charged atmosphere even more so.
  • One participant had a breakdown – the environment and her experiences in our travels triggered childhood memories of traumatic repeated rapes growing up in Canada.
  •  Years later one tour leader was charged with misconduct as his activities escalated in future programs. So while there were some marvellous moments, there were other times which alas were not.
  • Yet what stayed was positive and the incredible privilege of being introduced in such a dynamic way to a remarkable country.
You can't silence us! (Photo taken in Bandra, Mumbai)

You can’t silence us! (Photo taken in Bandra, Bombay)

Dancing with eve… learning to fight back (1995-1996)

  • Years later on a fellowship studying in Delhi, I learned first hand just how serious the innocuous sounding phrase ‘eve teasing’ truly is.
  • As I hopped on and off DTC buses and navigated the streets of Delhi, I quickly discovered this was very real and potentially dangerous.
  • On buses, ‘shoulder jacking’, for example, was quite popular and while primarily directed at seated women – guys were not immune either and would also find themselves being vigorously rubbed against in a situation where there was literally no room to move.
  • So I shed my polite Canadian veneer and learned to fight back! Practicing my basic Hindi hurling abuses, attempting to embarrass the perpetrators by shaming them loudly and, at times, drawing blood as I dug my fingernails into hands that were in places they had no business being.
  • I learned what to wear to reduce unwanted attentions, how to carry myself differently and never let down my guard when alone.
  • I also learned to always arrange a ‘male’ companion if going out at night – which generally just happened and was all good fun!
  • And it virtually stopped! The new ‘amour’ worked brilliantly and I could be comfortable as long as I worked within these lessons learned.
  • While there were challenges, these were few and far between. Overall, it was an exceptional time – full of discovery, growth and much more – one of the most positive experiences in my life. For every negative there was an even greater positive experience and I have no regrets.
Yo gurlz - listen up! (Photo taken in Bandra, Mumbai)

Yo gurlz – listen up! (Photo taken in Bandra, Bombay)

A match made in Mumbai (2003 to….?)

  • Fast forward to 2003 with a return to Delhi… there were signs of some improvements. However catching a bus or rickshaw after dark from work to home was still decidedly NOT a safe or pleasant experience.
  • With the purchase of a car, hiring a driver, I finally had respite and gained a freedom to move around that had earlier been impossible.
  • More significant was the move to Mumbai in 2005 which enabled me, for the first time, to take off the ‘armour’ I adopted to cope with life in North India.
  • It was suddenly acceptable to step out of home in the evening alone and hop on a rickshaw! What joy! What a relief!!
  • Defiantly I began to confidently wear clothes that I couldn’t conceive of decades ago – and revelled in how significantly what is considered ‘appropriate’ had changed.
  • And while I would never deliberately invite trouble, I do have age on my side. After 23+ years flirting with India, my love affair has evolved from being a young ‘didi’ (sister) to a maturing ‘aunty’ – respectable in a committed partnership with a lovely man.

Yet today in I see signs of the earlier blithe assumption of safely moving around as a woman in Mumbai in jeopardy. In dismay I watch my beloved ‘Bombay’ report repeated public cases of brutal rape and witness the environment shifting. Each day the newspaper brings further updates on the latest example of a woman or child being molested.

My love affair remains strong and true – I remain fortunate to construct a life where such challenges are minimal. However I’m equally aware this is something which can never be taken for granted. Eve teasing in India is not to be taken lightly. However India is by no means unique and no one is exempt either from the experience or responsibility for sexual harassment.

So how does it feel to be a woman in India? Frankly how does it feel to be a woman anywhere in the world? Or, for that matter, under certain circumstances a man too? Sexual harassment is unfortunately universal. Can you challenge this?

Related articles

Life’s simple pleasures… the joys of doing laundry?

You may think I’m insane… but right now… the simple pleasure of doing my own laundry in my own washing machine is pure bliss! The ritual of putting it up to dry and then taking them down after a few hours to stack in a pile to go to the press wallah tomorrow morning is such a joy!!

The clothing quandry of working professionally away from home in hotels includes:

  • Don’t bother to do laundry. If traveling only a few days, imminently do-able. If not… (Most trips now 21 days)

    Happy clean clothes drying in the balcony

    Happy clean clothes drying in the balcony

  • Selectively attempt to hand wash and dry in the hotel room (Works for the ahem! ‘unmentionables’ but not everything)
  • Live in the same clothes repeatedly (Nope – can’t do!)
  • Pack a massive bag and lug around enough clothes to last the entire trip (Generally, if I can’t carry it on the plane myself, don’t to take it!)
  • Do send clothes for laundry and live with the consequences

None of these options are ideal. With all my trips back n forth between Mumbai and Jakarta, I’ve tried a modified approach: (more…)

“Can you drop the Indian accent?” – Accents and voice overs

Recently, I did a voice over in Jakarta for an ad pitch. They were looking for a middle-aged woman with a North American accent who could speak with warmth, like a mother to her growing child. Now…

Where the deed was done!

Where the deed was done!

  • I’m indeed a ‘native’ English speaker
  • I’m certainly from North America  (yes the Canadian prairies count!)
  • I’m quite happily in my 40s so the right ‘age’ (more or less)

However… I don’t exactly have what you would call a typical ‘Canadian’ accent any more. Truth be told after a decade plus in India, it has more than just a tinge of an Indian lilt.

So given just how Indianized my accent has become, it was no surprise that my friend who arranged the voice recording begged me “Can you please drop your Indian accent?”

Apparently I succeeded in reclaiming my ‘home and native land’ accent. We were able to ‘nail’ the recording in only 5 takes – including options for the client to consider.

Now I’m not a professional at doing voice recordings, so it was an amusing experience however it did prompt me to think about how our accents adapt to our environment. (more…)

The sounds of travel… death by baby wail!

Oh those innocent little tykes. Those big dark moist eyes. Those little fingers that fetchingly reach out. Cuteness incarnate until… Mouth opens wide and unleashes…. THE HOWL!!!!

Yes I've shamelessly borrowed this from an IDBI Fortis campaign - hope my friends there will forgive!

Yes I’ve shamelessly borrowed this from an IDBI Fortis campaign – hope my friends there will forgive!

There is something about flying in and out of India. For that matter most countries with a youthful demographic. There are always kids – LOTS of kids! And in some cases, they have the most amazing lung capacity. One sets another off and soon there is a symphony of screeching.

On my recent trip from Mumbai to Jakarta, I had their sweet serenade from the queue outside the airport, the wait to check-in, then the wait for immigration, followed by the wait for security so that even before stepping foot on the plane…  their lungs were clearly well-primed already for the coming concert. My head was throbbing in accompaniment long before we even took off!

These munchkins are champion caterwallers and – alas – can keep it up ALL night. Nothing can hold back the anguished wails. Noise cancellation headsets at ear bleeding levels cannot compete. (more…)

Back in Bombay… and straight to Bandra!

Its my first trip home to Mumbai since landing a super cool project in Jakarta. I managed to arrange a flight route (via Bangkok) that permitted me to arrive in time for a friend’s new gallery / event space launch. We reached just as the music began, what joy to be serenaded by a dear friend, munch on macaroon treats, sip wine and generally enjoy terrific company in a convivial atmosphere. Our friend has done well with this new venture!

For those unfamiliar with Bandra, it is a special neighbourhood – a catholic bastion with strong proud traditions that has become rather popular with ex-pats – including those seeking a more ‘regular’ life not bolstered by insane high salaries and expense accounts. You know the type – locally hired foreigners who have chosen to stay and forgo all the ‘extras’ that come with a pampered ex-pat nomadic life!

Particularly the immediate area around Veronica and Chapel road, one can still find old bungalows and a sense of community. The space I found myself just a few hours from landing is one such bungalow… That was falling into complete disrepair until along came friends with a huge labour of love and rather more money than they planned – transforming it into a new avatar – an enchanting space to enjoy for eclectic events and show off funky furniture.

Rapt audience

Yes we were a rapt attentive audience!

(more…)

Happy Independence Day India + Indonesia!!

Today my adopted home India celebrates its Independence Day. On Saturday I fly home from Indonesia – as it celebrates its Independence Day.

While the boundaries of the nation-state seem out-dated in this remarkably connected world we live in… Pride in who we are, where we come from, a sense of community and belonging can be a good thing.

So here’s a cheer to India & Indonesia – may you have much to celebrate on these  days with more to come!

— From a global citizen privileged to enjoy both India & Indonesia!

indonesian Independence Day PHOTO

Related posts:

A proper “princess” penthouse pad!

My "princess" pad

My “princess” pad

While I’ve said enough about being aghast at discovering I’ve become a picky princess when it comes to places to stay, my adventures in Jakarta house hunting experienced a temporary reprieve with the discovery of a short-term studio apartment in CityLofts Sudirman.

It is connected to CityWalk Mall – full of restaurants, cafes, wine bars and even has a Whiskey Baron (my whisky aficionado side is intrigued tho have yet to try!). Nearby are more independent high-end restaurants for those moments of extra indulgence – my 1st day here went to Harum Manis – what a delicious feast!

The view is spectacular and my photos don’t even come close to doing it justice. Being here during Lebaran was such a treat as I watched all the fireworks from exhaulted heights! Comfortable, spacious for a studio, high-speed internet, lovely pool, my caffeine addiction was fully supported with a large French press and great cafes downstairs.

(more…)

“Happy Holidays!” aka the Jakarta exodus

There really wasn’t time for any ‘planning’ or ‘preparation’ before this trip to Indonesia. Everything came together quite suddenly. And while instincts screamed there wouldn’t be much we could do the week of Ramadan, we had been assured that technically only 8-9 August were holidays so at least some people would be working the balance days. Furthermore, for such an important project, it was critical we demonstrate our commitment by being on the ground ready to work.

What happened? Friday (2 Aug) late afternoon as I was about to head out to hunt for apartments, learned that the office would be closed. As in an hour from when we were informed, it would be fully shut until Mon, 12 August 2013. Not only would the office be closed, the entire building would be. Not only that, but the national holiday was extended to the full week as well so Jakarta would shortly become a ‘ghost town’.

I had already been considering heading to Bali or Gili islands for the latter half of the week. The work would be ‘virtual’ those days anyways, so why not do it from a blissfully relaxed beach? Why not indeed!? (more…)

Adventures in Jakarta apartment hunting

So the Jakarta accommodation saga continues… The “Princess” now has to admit, this hotel is growing on me. After getting out and about a couple of times, realised the ability to walk to the office is PURE GOLD! The gym is well-equipped, the food is good (today’s lunch was gado-gado), staff super nice and the poolside terrace restaurant really quite lovely.

Poolside gado gado - yum!

Poolside gado gado – yum!

With a change in room, no more shower head battles, figuring out how to turn the A/C off, making peace with acrobatic contortions under the table to use the single power point, getting the telephone and wi-fi fixed, buying sundry toiletries, am now quite comfortable.

Especially when I started to explore the alternatives… Apartment hunting with Lebaran (Eid al-Fitre) around the corner is well…. just silly! (more…)